For São Paulo's Tuju, great service is serious business

The husband-and-wife team behind one of the city's leading restaurants discuss its philosophy, Brazilian hospitality and their pick of São Paulo's best bars and restaurants for every occasion.

Much has changed since Ivan Ralston and Katherina Cordás opened Tuju in 2014: the couple is now married, they've added three children to the family, and the restaurant has moved to São Paulo's Jardim Paulistano neighbourhood. This new location serves only one-third of the number of guests compared to the former venue, allowing the team to focus on delivering exceptional hospitality to every guest.

They describe the menu as 'São Paulo seasonal cuisine', the offering changing to reflect the distinct seasons experienced in the city. After researching São Paulo's weather patterns, they found it is rain that dictates the region's micro climate: as such, the four yearly menus are named Humidity, Rain, Wind and Drought. 

Ralston and Cordás are warm and quick to laugh, but turn serious when discussing two topics: their staff and their service. 

"The social distance between the working class and the rich is growing wider," says executive chef Ralston. "How can someone who works in a restaurant understand what we're trying to do if they can't experience it for themselves?" 


Ralston founded Tuju in 2014 and opened the restaurant in its current location in 2024

To address this, the pair invite the team to experience each new menu as a guest. "Great service starts with giving your team great working conditions and a nice working environment," he says. "It's important for all our staff to see what the restaurant is like from the guest's side of the table." 

Attention to detail is the hallmark of Tuju's distinct service. "The first thing we do is ask guests their names," says Ralston. "We call them by their names for the rest of the night. It makes them feel seen."

As the experience unfolds, the team guides diners across the restaurant's three floors. The evening ends on the terrace with petit-fours, coffee and skyline views. This progression is intended not only to make the most of the impressive space, but to help refresh guests who may otherwise tire of a long tasting menu experience.

The couple is constantly seeking out the characteristics that make Brazilian hospitality unique. "In the past decade, we've really discovered what Brazilian food is, but what makes Brazilian hospitality? That's something we're working on all the time," explains Cordás, Tuju's hospitality and research director. "We ask ourselves: 'What do people feel when they are in Brazil, and specifically in São Paulo and Tuju?'"

Ralston describes Tuju's menu as 'São Paulo seasonal cuisine'

They approach this question laterally. "Last year, I ate at Sugita [a celebrated Tokyo sushi restaurant, led by chef-owner Takaaki Sugita]," says Ralston. "The food was marvellous, but it was the way the chef moved that really captured my attention. It was like he was dancing. When I came home, I said to Katherina, 'Brazilian people use their bodies to express themselves in lots of different ways, like in traditional dances. If we can incorporate some of that in the way we serve – without being weird – it could be successful.'"

This drive to constantly interrogate and seek out the markers of world-class service has earned Tuju the Art of Hospitality Award, as part of The 50 Best Restaurants 2026.

Here, the couple recommend their top spots for outstanding service across the city, whether you're after simple, precise cocktails or a family-friendly spread. 

For date night – Ryo Gastronomia

São Paulo is home to the largest Japanese community outside of Japan, and this omakase restaurant encapsulates the best of the diaspora. "Japanese food in Brazil is different from Japanese food in Japan," says Ralston. "When you compare it to Nikkei cuisine in Peru, it's much more like traditional Japanese food, but in some subtle ways, it differs. "It's a very intimate space," adds Corderás. "We actually went there for our last wedding anniversary." 

For a local's welcome – Tordesilhas

Image: Iara Venanzi

Peppers, both pickled and fresh, are central to traditional Brazilian cooking, and Tordesilhas has quite the collection. "There's even a member of staff entirely dedicated to them, almost like a pepper sommelier," says Corderás.

Chef Mara Salles serves dishes from across the country, but it's her warmth that stands out. "You feel cared for," says Corderás. "We always take friends when they come from out of town," adds Ralston. "We love the barreado [a beef stew from the southern state of Paraná]. Plus, the caipirinhas are the best in the city."

Where you'll feel instantly at home – The Punch Bar
Corderás and Ralston have been a regular fixture at this Japanese-style bar since it opened eight years ago. "The couple who run it are of Japanese descent and they make Japanese style cocktails. There's something about Japanese food and drink culture that connects well with Brazilian food," explains Ralston. "Don't expect fancy garnishes. Their style is based on simplicity and precision." Their go-to order? The Green Garden – made with rum and shiso – and a martini. 

For all the family – Ráscal
If you're en famille, Ralston knows the place. "I have to mention my father's restaurant," he says. "There's a Mediterranean buffet, so there's something for everyone, and the food is delicious." Ráscal opened when Ralston was nine and he still remembers the first service. "I helped burn the tops of the crème brûlées."

"I was a big fan even before I met Ivan," Corderás adds. "Everyone in São Paulo goes there with their family. It's delicious, fresh and always fun."

"Kids get bored if you stay at a table too long – here, you can eat in 30 minutes if you want" says Ralston.

For a meal that will stick in your memory – Restaurante Cepa

The concept behind this modern, sharing plates restaurant ranked No.73 on the list of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants 2025 may not be an entirely unique, but it's a must, says Ralston. "You can find this sort of place all over the world," he acknowledges, "but chef Lucas Dante cooks with precision. It's our favourite restaurant in the city. He uses the same suppliers we do. I honestly don't know how he makes money, because he charges much less than we do, since it's a simpler restaurant." The hamburgers are a cut above, adds Corderás. "They're the best in town, but they only make 12 per day." 

For a homecoming meal – Bar da Dona Onça

"When I've been away for a while, I head to Bar da Dona Onça [led by chef Janaina Torres, named the winner of The World's Best Female Chef Award 2024]," says Corderás. "I really crave feijoada when I'm overseas and hers is the best. They also have great caipirinhas."

It's a powerhouse among the Brazilian restaurant scene, not least because of its iconic location in the undulating Copan building, designed by the great Oscar Niemeyer.

For after hours – Boca de Ouro and Soffio Pizzeria
"We don't really go out after service, now that we have three kids," says Ralston. "But when we were younger, we used to go to Boca de Ouro." Set in the culture-laden Pinheiros neighbourhood, it's known for excellent cachaça cocktails and great prices. "If we do go out these days, we keep it simple and have pizza and beer at Soffio," says Corderás. "It's the best pizza in the town."

The list of The 50 Best Restaurants 2026 (formerly known as The World's 50 Best Restaurants) will be revealed on Wednesday 4 November in Lima, Peru.

(Header image: Alberto Ricci)