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Bozar

Brussels

Where patience and precision become an artform

On the Pass

Karen Torosyan

Where culture meets cuisine: Brussels' Centre for Fine Arts (Bozar) is an institution where all imaginable forms of human expression – from drawing, painting and photography to music and film – come together under one spectacular Art Deco roof. Of course, gastronomy is no exception; and though it has its own separate entrance, Bozar restaurant is very much an integral part of the centre's creative whole. Its chosen medium?Classic French cuisine, expressed through painstakingly exacting, centuries-old techniques.

Patience and precision: The more complicated the method, the richer the reward – that's the philosophy of Armenian-born chef Karen Torosyan. Folded and laminated to perfection, his most talked-about dishes all showcase puff pastry in some form; think beef wellington, pâté en croûte and a variety of made-to-order pithiviers. Elsewhere on the menu are equally labour-intensive creations including Granivore – pigeon layered with foie gras and smoked eel beneath a crust of seeds and grains – and the notoriously demanding lièvre à la royale, a dish of boned, stuffed, rolled and braised hare.

Back to the setting. Designed by legendary Belgian architect Victor Horta, the building is as much a part of the dining experience as the food. Restrained and elegant rather than imposing or ostentatious, the space is another example of craftsmanship over spectacle: clean, geometric lines, warm wood panelling, comfortable leather seating and soft, indirect lighting all combine to create a quietly refined backdrop – allowing the focus to remain firmly on each carefully constructed dish.

Don't leave without trying: The mille-feuille, prepared à la minute. Torosyan spent two years perfecting his version of this iconic French dessert, experimenting with different flours and butter ratios to ensure even layers and wonderfully crisp, delicate pastry. For the chef, even the sound matters: it's designed to produce a satisfying crunch when cut with a spoon.

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